The website is out of date but this page if pretty good

as is this page (although the links from it are not 100% up to date) the cars pictures in the links show each body style that you can use
http://farroutslotcars.com/2012-RaceClasses.asp

Attached is an excel spreadsheet showing the summary rules page (first tab) and then a nearly complete list of every car eligible in each class with a link to a picture of each car - quite useful :)

Enjoy.  Ask if any questions.
SFJ

Below are the basic rules and class specific rules.

The basic rules are below (from the first link above):

Rules and Regulations for Cars

1.           If it is not written here it is not allowed.  Please take this VERY literally.  If you have any doubt at all ask Stephen first. 

2.           The intent is that we race all cars in box standard form, running the same type of motors, gears, wheels, tires, chassis', guides and axles that it came with.  All items can be replaced with the manufacturer's identical OEM product unless specifically noted in the class rules.  Absolutely NO upgrades of these items, no exceptions. 

3.             You can: 

·         Sand your tires to make them truly round. You do not need to retain the tire tread but there should be no holes in the tire.  Just remember your car will bottom out if you remove too much of the tire.

·         Glue your tires on the rims, however for most cars we race this is really not needed as the engines are not strong enough.

·        Add shims to remove excessive sideways or vertical movement of your front axles and sideways movement of your rear axles.

·        Replace plastic axle bearings with brass bearings. Note: ball-race bearings of any sort are specifically not allowed.

·        Glue in your motors, motor shafts, axles, lead wires, bushings to reduce vibrations.  You could use a reversible glue if you want to avoid damage to car e.g. hot glue instead of superglue.

·        Loosen body screws a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to encourage a little body rocking.  You cannot trim or shave the chassis in any way. 

·        Lubricate any moving parts such as gears, axle bearings, guide posts etc.

·        Sparingly use braid conditioner (such as Tiger Milk, Parma PSE, Slick 7 Voodoo) on the braids.  The sparingly comment is to prevent lots of fluid on the tracks J

·        Clean your tires.  Don’t underestimate the amount of extra grip available from doing this (and getting your tires true) versus using silicon tires or the like.  Good old-fashioned spit, and tacky tape for removing lint are very effective.  PPR Slots Super Tire Cleaner (www.pprslots.com) can be used to clean the tires as well.  No other fluids of any sort may be used on tires, period, NO exceptions at all.  Specifically no type of "zero-grip" additive may be used on the fronts e.g. nail-polish or superglue and no grip additive of any sort may be used on the driving wheels - including lighter fuel, glue's, wintergreen, rubber renewer, boiling or oiling the tires in any way etc. etc.

·        With consumables like wire, spacers, screws, eyelets, and bushings you are free to replace as needed with whatever works for you.  Again, you cannot change bushings to ball-bearing types.

4.             Vehicle liveries may be changed and vehicles, wheels etc. may be painted as desired.

5.            Windscreens and small parts such as mirrors and bumper bars may be removed to prevent their loss or damage.

6.            Totally new models will be eligible to race once we have tested them relative to the cars in that class.  We will try to do so as soon as they come out.

7.            For vehicles over 10 years old, where genuine replacement parts in good order are not readily available, the use of reproduction, custom manufactured or non original manufacturer parts which are as near as possible original material, dimensions and specifications may be used.  See The Benevolent Dictator aka Stephen for specific advice

8.            If you choose (and you are definitely encouraged to do so) to use a different resin or plastic body on a class approved chassis / drive-train you need to complete the following 3 steps with The Benevolent Dictator: a) check  that the body is appropriate for the class b) check what chassis you will use c) get pre-approval to move the horizontal location of the front axle if you need to adjust the wheelbase.  This is the ONLY time you are allowed to modify any chassis at all so please check with Stephen first.


The short class rules are as follows
 

Fly 1964-'74 Le Mans: Runs as is out of the box. No magnet. Approved Ortmann rear tires mandatory. Fly chassis.   Period proper cars from Fly are legal. Added weight is allowed on all class legal cars.

Eligible Cars: Fly 1964-'74 Le Mans

SCX 4WDRuns as is out of the box. No magnet. Mandatory Ninco 19x10mm tires for the rear. You can still run the SCX tires on the front if you wish (allowed as a potential cost saving so you only have to change one pair of tires). No added weight allowed. Engine is the RX-81 in V2 state of tune or RX-91, Pro Double rally, Pro Speed Double rally, Pro Turbo 4x4, but NOT RK-81/91

Eligible Cars: All SCX 4WD gear driven cars made from 1991 to present fitted with legal motor. Altaya and Planeta versions of the same cars are eligible.  Magnets, if fitted, must be removed. 


SCX F1 1970/80'sRuns as is out of the box. No magnet. Approved rear tires from Ortmann, SCX or SCX replacement supplier are required. Ortmann tires are recommended.
No added weight allowed. For 2010 we will use SCX RX-2/RX-4/RX-41/RX-42 motors. Pro-turbo and "B" spec motors are not allowed. For details on differences in SCX RX engines see the following thread on Slot Forum http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6992&hl

Eligible Cars: All SCX F1 cars made from 1973 to 1997 originally fitted with an RX-2, RX-4 or RX-41 motor, Altaya and Planeta versions of the same cars are eligible. 


Ninco GT1 Le Man

sRuns as is out of the box. No magnet. No weight.  NC-1 or NC-8 motors only. Approved Ninco rear tires mandatory. The BMW V12 LMR and LM98 are no longer allowed, as they are not GT1 cars (and were deemed too fast). Mandatory tires are Ninco 20x11 or 20.5x11.5 tires depending on wheel your car came with (all models have had all the various size hubs available so you can run either tire on any car but you will need the right size hubs). All cars must run the Ninco NC-1 or NC-8 motor. Magnets, if fitted, must be removed. No added weight allowed. Engine brackets to convert from NC-2/3/4/5 to NC-1 or NC-8 motors are available.

Eligible cars: any Ninco Le Mans GT1 racer made from 1996 to present, covering cars at Le Mans during the 1994 to 1999 period. Also eligible are any plastic or resin bodied period Le Mans GT1 car running on one of the below Ninco Le Mans chassis/ drive-train/ wheel/ tire combinations.


Ninco 1949-'63 Le Mans: Runs as is out of the box, non-magnet class.
All cars are allowed weight, if you wish. Either Ninco 20x9mm (on AC Cobra only) and 20x7mm tires are required (all other cars in class).

Eligible cars: any Ninco Le Mans classic racer produced from 1996 to present, covering cars at Le Mans from 1949 to 1963. Also eligible are any plastic or resin bodied period Le Mans car (mainly front-engined roadsters) running on one of the below Ninco Le Mans chassis/drive-train/ wheel/tire combinations. 


Slot.it Group C 1982-91 Le MansRuns as is out of the box. No magnet. Approved Ortmann rear tires mandatory. Ortmann No.51a tires mandatory on rear. Magnets must be removed. No added weight allowed.